What tuxedo shirt fabrics are available?Updated 6 months ago

The big day is coming up and you are looking at the shirt selection like it’s from Mars. With so many choices for shirts it’s important to know the basics and make your decision after reviewing several choices. Before we get into the tuxedo style types there are a few key questions you should ask yourself. Do you regularly wear business shirts? Do you feel comfortable with a bowtie or 4 in hand tie? What type of event are you attending? Think about these for a moment and we will revisit your answers in a bit.

Collar Types 

Now for the basics. The most common tuxedo shirt that you will encounter is the classic wingtip collar. This is the shirt collar that looks like there are two triangles pointed away from each other at right angles to the neck. Traditionally this was worn with only a bowtie compliment, but recently 4 in hand ties have been accepted also. Also, cravats and ascots are always allowed with style shirt. Consider this design for White-tie, Formal Black-Tie, and conservative formal events. When in doubt wear the wingtip collar, you will not go wrong.

Next up, the laydown collar. This collar evolved from the classic business shirt over to formal wear and is essentially the same but without the button down collar tabs. There are subtle variations within this category like the European spread collar, which curves more on the front edges. Formal neckwear selection for laydown collar falls into the all of the above category, but most people wear the 4 in hand or bowtie. The reason for the flexibility in neckwear options is due to the fact that this collar is considered non traditional, allowing the rules to be bent a little. The laydown collar is good for weddings, proms, New Years, and pretty much any other event that is not a conservative formal.

Last but not least the mandarin collar rounds out the collar category. This collar type is also know as a Chinese collar, a clerical collar or Nehru collar, and has the distinctive round edge with no collar to speak of. The only neckwear that can be worn with a mandarin collar is a button cover. This shirt is the king for all who hate dress shirts but have to wear one anyway. DJ’s in particular love this shirt design. Changing up the style is as easy as changing the button cover color.

Fabric and Pleats

What is the difference between a poly/cotton blend, microfiber, and 100% cotton? Read on if you’re a little unsure. Poly/cotton blend tuxedo shirts are usually a 65/35 blend of polyester and cotton. These shirts are typically the cheapest and come in pin tuck pleats ( 1/8 inch) or ¼ inch pleating. The standard shirt is usually the ¼ inch pleat, with the pin tuck being used mostly by the service industry. The poly/cotton blend shirts come with buttons and eyelets for studs and cufflinks. The cuff is a barrel cuff, which allows both buttons and studs.

The classic tuxedo shirt is 100% cotton shirt, ½ inch pleats and full French cuffs. This is the standard all other tuxedo shirts are measured by. The 100% cotton breathes better as a fabric and can attain that super crisp look depending on the amount of starch used during pressing. Full French cuffs have the double thick cuff that allows the cufflinks being worn to really stand out. Different types of cotton and texture within the cotton fabric can add to the uniqueness of your shirt. Typically the textured cotton types are made without any pleats as the cotton texture acts as a substitute. Pleating will vary from ¼ inch pleats to a full 1 inch pleats, but the classic tuxedo shirt will always be the ½ inch pleat.

Microfiber tuxedo shirts are the newest addition to the fabric lineup, straddling the best of both worlds in fabric. Being a synthetic it is more wrinkle resistant than cotton and extremely colorfast. By weaving the thread in a similar way to organic fibers it has a softness and flexibility that rivals cotton. Being the new kid on the block this fabric is often overlooked, but when you need a consistent color and good looks there is no other way to go. Case in point, the Ray by Talia will rival most high end ivory tuxedo shirts, but without the cost. Also any of the brilliant colors like celadon, pink, or cardinal red are all made in a microfiber for quality control and longevity.